Power Up Your Landscape with These Edible & Herbal Superstars!

Power Up Your Landscape with These Edible & Herbal Superstars!

If you would like to maximize your yard space for nutrition, wellness, and enjoyment, check out these sixteen plants, many of which are highly nutritious, support pollinators, provide year round interest, or attract hummingbirds and butterflies!  Enjoy!  🙂

 

Trees

Citrus ‘Improved Meyer Lemon’

Edible & Herbal Superstars!Lemons have a relatively low heat requirement in terms of citrus, and do very well near the California coast.  All citrus is frost sensitive.  Improved Meyer Lemon is one of the only disease free lemon varieties allowed for sale in California.  Meyer Lemon can be easily maintained at 6′ x 6′.  Lemon trees are evergreen and have dark green glossy leaves.  Meyer Lemon is thin skinned,  very juicy, and has a less acidic taste than most lemons making it a great variety for juicing.  Lemon is extremely valuable medicinally, and for preparing herbal home cleaning products.

 

Citrus Orange

Edible & Herbal Superstars!Like lemons, orange trees are beautiful in the landscape, and very valuable in the home garden.  The orange blossom fragrance is very calming, and oranges are a wonderful source of vitamin C.  There are many varieties of oranges that ripen at different times of the year.  If you love fresh oranges, you might consider having one tree that ripens in Summer, and one that ripens in Winter.  All citrus is frost sensitive. Citrus can successfully be grown in containers for years.  Use a dwarf variety for container planting.  Check with a nursery or citrus grower for best varieties for your needs and growing area.  Four Winds Growers is an excellent source of information on citrus selection and care.

 

Pomegranate  (Punica granatum)

Edible & Herbal Superstars!Pomegranates produce a highly nutritious fruit that is very high in Vitamin C and anti-oxidants.  The fruit and juice is often quite expensive when purchased in stores.  Many of the juice brands sold in stores have added sugar and other ingredients.  Pure pomegranate juice will be the most expensive.  The fruit ripens in Fall, and can be stored for several months in the refrigerator.  For this reason, I consider pomegranate one of the most valuable trees to have in the yard if they can grow in your area.  Pomegranates are one of those plants that I’ve often seen thriving in spite of neglect. Although they can tolerate considerable drought, trees grown for fruit should receive regular watering.  There are many varieties available with differences in tartness or sweetness of juice, and some varieties are better than others for juicing.  Pomegranate trees are deciduous, and usually grow as a large multi-stemmed shrub. Pomegranates can tolerate heat and many soils including alkaline.  I’ve seen them produce well in clay soil as well.

 

Shrubs

Pineapple Guava (Feijowa Sellowiana)

Edible & Herbal Superstars!Pineapple Guava is an evergreen shrub or tree that can take full sun.  The plants can get quite large (to 15′ x 25′), but can tolerate heavy pruning.  These plants are usually grown as large broad shrubs or multi-trunked trees.  Flowers and fruit are edible, and attractive to birds and bees.  The pretty flowers can be added to salads, and the fruits can be eaten plain or used to make jelly.  The plants are drought tolerant, but should be watered regularly if grown for fruit.  Improved varieties such as ‘Beechwood’, ‘Coolidge’, ‘Mammoth’, and ‘Trask’ will be self-fruitful.  Older varieties will need a pollinator plant nearby.

 

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)

Edible & Herbal Superstars!Rosemary is a great culinary herb that also makes an exceptional landscaping plant because it is tough and easy to grow.  Rosemary comes in spreading or upright forms, and is usually grown as a large shrub or mounding ground cover. Depending on variety, plants can typically grow to 6′-8′ wide and 3′ tall or more. Rosemary can also be used to create topiaries or shaped into small living Christmas trees which can be used year after year.  Rosemary can be grown in full sun, and is a low-water user.  The plant tolerates ocean spray, wind, heat, poor soils, and clay.  Rosemary is also fire resistant and deer resistant.  There are many varieties available with differences in growth habit and size.  Depending on where it is grown, it may bloom off and on all year.  Most flower in some shade of lavender blue, but there are a couple of pink varieties as well.  To save yourself work, and maintain the attractiveness of the plant, be sure to plant it in a location where it can grow to full size without needing extensive pruning to control size.  Variety ‘Barbeque’ is very upright and narrow.  It grows only 2-3′ wide and up to 6′ tall. This variety would be great for small yards or for creating a natural living screen.  Rosemary is attractive to bees when in bloom.

As an herb, rosemary is commonly used to flavor meat, pasta, fish, and other dishes, and has medicinal properties as well.  Rosemary has been regarded throughout history as being uplifting and energizing, and has been used to relieve depression, exhaustion, and arthritis. The essential oil of Rosemary is believed to stimulate hair growth, and is an ingredient in many shampoos.

 

Purple Garden Sage (Salvia officinalis ‘Purpurescens’)

Edible & Herbal Superstars!Sage (Salvia officinalis) has long been associated with health and longevity. This is the plant referred to in the saying, “Why would a man become sick when Sage grows in the garden”.  This is also the herb commonly used to flavor chicken. Some herbal references say that Purple Garden Sage (Salvia o. ‘Purpurescens) is more effective medicinally than the green leaved variety, Salvia officinalis. In the garden, both varieties are easy-care plants growing to about 3′ x 3’ with stalks of purple flowers that are loved by bees and hummingbirds. The purple tinged leaves on Purple Garden Sage will stay through the Winter in Central California.  Both varieties can tolerate ocean spray, poor soils, clay, wind, deer, rabbits, and alkaline soil.

 

California White Sage or Sacred White Sage (Salvia apiana)

Edible & Herbal Superstars!Salvia apiana is a California native with aromatic silvery white leaves and lightly fragrant white flowers growing on 2′ tall stems. This plant is loved by bees and hummingbirds.  The silvery foliage shines in moonlight and provides a great background for dark purple or red flowers.  This plant requires very little summer water once established, and tolerates poor soils, heat, deer, and rabbits.  It is also considered fire resistant.  Sacred White Sage has medicinal properties, and is the sage commonly used ceremonially by Native Americans.  The plant should be located in full sun.

 

Blueberry

Blueberries are highly nutritious, and given the right conditions, can be grown successfully in the landscape or in containers.  Being native to Eastern North America, Blueberries thrive in conditions that suit Azaleas (cool, acidic soil rich in organic matter with good drainage).  There are now many varieties available for all areas of the country.  Varieties also differ in size of plant, as well as size and sweetness of berries. Because blueberries require specific conditions for fruit production and to keep the plants thriving,  be sure to select varieties well-suited to your region.  Given the right conditions, Blueberry plants look great in a landscape, and are a valuable addition to the home garden, especially if you are gardening with children.  Blueberries can be grown successfully in containers, and can remain productive in the same pot for several years with proper feeding and care.

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Perennials

Lavender (Lavandula)

Edible & Herbal Superstars!Lavender is water-wise, very beautiful, loved by bees & butterflies, and is very useful.  Lavender has calming and antiseptic properties as well as a wide variety of medicinal uses.  Lavender flowers are edible, and can be used to flavor ice cream, cookies, and pastries.  Lavender is commonly used in sachets, perfumes, soaps, and baby products as well as cleaning products, and as insect repellents for pets.

Lavender is easy to grow, especially in hot, dry climates.  Lavender can thrive in heat or cool climates, and requires little to no fertilizing.  The most common causes of death or poor growth of Lavender are over-watering, over-fertilizing, frost, or humidity combined with heat.  There are many varieties available with differences in size of plants, flower color, and strength of fragrance.  Some varieties have been developed with better tolerance to certain environmental conditions such as humidity.  Lavender needs full sun.  If you are wanting to grow Lavender for medicinal or herbal use, plants with variety name beginning with Lavandula angustifolia would be best.

 

Oregano (Origanum AKA Marjoram)

Edible & Herbal Superstars!Oregano is a valuable herb that also makes a great landscape plant.  Most of us are familiar with Oregano as one of the herbs that gives the sweet taste to Italian pasta sauces.  Oregano is considered by many to be an essential cooking herb, and the flavor can be kind of addicting like that of Basil and Dill!
In the landscape, Oregano thrives in heat, is a low-water user, and grows only to about 2′ x 2′.  It is also a butterfly attractor, and bees love it.  Oregano can be used as a small ground cover, in rock gardens, or cascading over retaining walls. Oregano has very pretty flowers that can be cut and dried.

 

Thyme (Thymus)

Edible & Herbal Superstars!Thyme is another popular culinary herb that makes a great landscaping plant. There are many varieties with differences in scent, flower color, and growth habit.  Most varieties prefer full sun, or afternoon shade in hot summer areas. The small mat-forming varieties make an excellent ground cover for small spaces.  Elfin Thyme has tiny leaves and only grows to 2″ x 5″ wide.  This variety is a low-water user, and does not produce flowers, so it would work well between stepping stones.  Golden Lemon Thyme (Thymus x citriodorus ‘Aureus’) is a popular favorite that grows 1’x2′, and has grayish green leaves splashed with gold.  The leaves have a lemon scent and flavor.

 

Garlic

Edible & Herbal Superstars!The medicinal and nutritional qualities of Garlic make it essential in the family garden.  Garlic is one of the most valuable plants on the planet. Garlic has several medicinal qualities, and is an essential cooking herb for flavoring meats, dressings, sauces, and many other foods. Garlic can be used in home made pest repellent and pest management recipes for the garden, and is said to be a good companion for roses. Fresh Garlic is far superior in flavor and nutritional quality than Garlic typically found in stores.  Garlic can be planted in shrub beds to help repel aphids from roses and other plants.  Garlic prefers organically rich soil, and needs regular watering.  In mild winter areas, plant in Fall for early summer harvest.  If your winters are cold, plant in early spring.

 

Aloe Vera (Aloe vera)

Edible & Herbal Superstars! Aloe is another of the most medicinally valuable plants on earth, and it is not difficult to grow in relatively frost-free areas. Pure, raw Aloe Vera juice and gel can be expensive to purchase.  If you are using Aloe juice on a regular basis, you might consider growing your own.  You can’t get fresher than harvesting from your own plants, and by growing your own, you know it is 100% pure and contains no chemical additives.  It takes several years for Aloe plants to grow large enough for harvesting significant amounts of gel or juice.  Aloe needs shade in hot summer areas.  Do your research on how to properly harvest, store, and use the gel and juice.  There is an irritating and fowl-tasting sap in the leaves that must be drained prior to juicing.  Aloe is frost sensitive.  

 

Annuals

Borage (Borago officinalis)

Edible & Herbal Superstars!Borage is a beautiful annual plant that grows to about 3′ x 2′, and has bright blue edible flowers, and fuzzy green leaves. Borage doesn’t transplant well, so direct seeding in late spring is the best way to get it started.  The plant will self-seed prolifically.

Borage has a wide variety of herbal uses.  Borage is know to stimulate the adrenal glands, reduce stress, soothe cough, and more.  Flowers can be used in fresh arrangements.  The plant tolerates poor soil and some drought.  It benefits from afternoon shade in hot summer areas, and needs frost protection.  Seeds are commonly available in retail stores, nurseries, and online sources.  Borage is a very prolific self-seeder.

 

Calendula (Calendula officinalis)

Edible & Herbal Superstars!Ancient herbalists used to recommend Calendula for “clearing the head, and encouraging cheerfulness”.  Many of today’s modern homeopathic remedies contain Calendula, and it can be used for making a variety of home remedies including teas, compresses, and creams.
Calendula provides masses of dependable color from Fall through mid Spring in mild Winter areas. Calendula is super easy to grow, and can be started from transplants in Fall or grown from seed.  Use calendula in flower beds, along driveways, or plant some seeds in a sunny spot where you just need some quick and easy color.   Calendula comes in orange, yellow, as well as other new shades. Calendula is great in children’s gardens and play areas, and the flowers can be used for cutting. Remove spent flowers to prolong bloom.  Allow some plants to go to seed at the end of the season, and they will self-sow for you year after year!

 

Sunflowers (Helianthus annuus)

Edible & Herbal Superstars! Sunflowers are among the easiest plants to grow.  They are often found growing wild along roadsides and open areas.  There is a wide array of varieties available in a wide range of colors, sizes, and growth habit. Some are annuals, and others are perennials. Sunflowers are great in the family garden and play areas for children.  Many varieties make great cut flowers, and birds love their seeds.  Sunflowers bloom in Summer and Fall, and need full sun.  Most non-native varieties need regular watering.  Plant in early Summer.

 

To find out if these plants will thrive in your growing area and to see ideas for how you might use them in your garden, click here.

Happy planning!

 

Essential Supplies and Other Helpful Items for Beginning Houseplant Growers

Essential Supplies and Other Helpful Items for Beginning Houseplant Growers

This post may include affiliate links.  That means if you make a purchase through one of them, I will receive a small commission. Using affiliate links does not result in a higher price for the consumer.  If you choose to purchase through one of my links, I thank you in advance for your support of my small business.

 

If you are new to growing houseplants or are considering getting started in the near future, here are some items you are likely to need for plant care:

Quality Pots

For beginners, I recommend that the pots your plants are actually growing in should have drainage holes and removable water catchment saucers.  The saucers should be large enough to hold a fair amount of water without it spilling over the edge and onto your furniture.  I use pots like these in my houseplant workshops.  They have good drainage, and are attractive enough to display in the home without being placed inside a more decorative pot. They come with matching saucers, and they can be purchased in bulk which is convenient if you plan to be growing more than just a few plants and you want all matching pots.  I would prefer that the saucers be a bit larger, but these work fine if you are careful to only apply a small amount of water at a time.  When your plants need a thorough soaking, water your plants in a plastic tub in the sink.  Allow the water to drain out of the pot for several minutes before placing it back on the saucer.  Find this favorite of mine here.

 

Plant Pot Coasters

In order to protect your furniture, avoid placing the pots directly on the furniture.  Furniture can be ruined by water stains or scratches caused by moving the plant pots.  Protecting your furniture doesn’t have to be expensive, especially if you don’t need everything to be matching or fancy.  Many common kitchen items such as trivets, pie plates, or plastic food containers can be repurposed even if only temporarily.  Here is an example of some basic plant coasters you might consider if you want them all to be matching:

 

Soil Mesh Screen

Some pots have very large drainage holes.  These pots will not hold potting mix without something being placed in the bottom of the pot to serve as a screen.  The least expensive option would be to repurpose items you may already have around the house such as a coffee filter, a paper towel, or a scrap piece of shade cloth or weed barrier fabric. You could also use broken pieces of terra cotta pots or rocks to partially block large holes. There are soil mesh screen prodcuts made specifically for this purpose such as this one:

 

Potting Mix

When you purchase new plants, it is likely that they will need repotting right away or soon after you get them home.  The type of potting mix you need will depend on the type of plants you are growing.  Many tropical houseplants can be grown in a standard houseplant mix.  Other plants such as African Violets or succulents are best grown in special potting mixes that meet their specific needs.  One way to minimize expense when just getting started growing houseplants is to start with plants that can all thrive in the same type of potting mix.  The least expensive will be the standard houseplant mixes made for typical tropical houseplants.  Keep any unused potting mix in tightly sealed bins to protect them from pests.  When purchasing potting mix, the larger the bag you purchase, the lower the cost.  Smaller bags are easier to handle, but the cost for the same amount will be higher.

Miracle-Gro Potting Mix

 

Fertilizer

To minimize expense, I encourage beginners to start their new houseplant collection with plants that can all be fertilized with the same general purpose houseplant fertilizer.  Some plants such as African Violets or succulents require special soil mixes and fertilizers which can increase the cost of getting started. is a general purpose fertilizer suitable for many common tropical foliage houseplants and garden plants as well.

JR Peters All Purpose Fertilizer

 

Gloves

Among other things, gloves protect our hands from getting splinters from the potting mix.  Some people prefer to feel the plants and soil with their hands.  If you use gloves, be sure to clean them or change them before moving from plant to plant. This will help prevent the possible spread of pests and diseases from one plant to another.   For working with houseplants, I prefer disposable vinyl gloves such as these:

 

Pruning Shears 

For trimming houseplants, a tool with a straight, narrow blade works best because the straight blade allows easier access to the interior stems and leaves of the plant.  The straight bladed tool is also ideal for trimming and harvesting soft-stemmed herbs and greens such as basil, oregano, lettuces, and spinach.  Bypass pruners (with a curved blade) work well for pruning thick stems or roots of pot-bound plants.  A set like this is ideal especially for those who also garden outdoors.  I’m very happy with mine.  The quality is excellent, and I paid less for this set than I had for one pair of bypass pruners sold by a popular major brand.

 

Small Watering Can With Narrow Spout

For watering houseplants, a small watering can with a narrow spout such as this one is ideal.  If you don’t need something fancy, these can be found at discount stores for a few dollars or less.

 

Soil Moisture Meter

Overwatering is the most common cause of decline and death of indoor plants.  The ideal amount of water to give a plant is enough for it to thrive, but not more than that.  One key to getting it right is getting to know your plants, and that takes some time.  Another key to success with watering is being able to accurately assess the moisture level of the soil.  A helpful tool for assessing soil moisture is a soil moisture meter.  There are several types available in a wide range of cost. I find that those with a corded probe are easiest to use.  For beginners, I recommend an inexpensive one like this:

 

Houseplant Journal

I encourage new houseplant growers to keep a houseplant journal.  This can be as simple as recording certain information in an inexpensive notebook.  The important thing is to do the recording so you can refer back to the information later.  Recording things such as the botanical name of the plant, the date acquired, and when it was fertilized or treated for pests will be helpful for learning about your plants and diagnosing plant-related problems that may come up.  When recording fertilization or other treatments, be sure to include the name and amount of the product used.  If you want a journal made specifically for use with houseplants, you might consider one like this which I created as a supplement to my Beginner’s Guide to Beautifying with Indoor Plants eBook. Click here to see my Houseplant Journal and Care Logbook.

Houseplant Journal and Care Logbook

 

For Pest Management:

Magnifying Glass

When we see a plant in decline, there may be multiple causes.  Taking a closer look at plant foliage may reveal some possible causes of problems.  It is difficult and sometimes impossible to correctly identify pest organisms or disease pathogens without the help of a microscope.  However, using a standard magnifying glass will be much more helpful than using only the naked eye.  For inspecting plants, a minimum of 10X magnification is recommended.  Here is one that has 30X magnification and comes with a light.  It requires two AA batteries:

Magnifying Glass

 

Yellow Sticky Traps

Yellow sticky traps are helpful in trapping adult fungus gnats and other flying houseplant pests.  Using the traps continuously will alert you to the presence of pests before a major infestation occurs.  The best value for your money will be found in purchasing a large quantity of large sticky cards.  Large cards can be cut to fit your needs.  Holders for the cards may be sold separately.  To make handling easier, I leave about an inch wide strip of the paper in place at the top and bottom on each side of the card.  One benefit of doing this is that it will keep the holders clean.  (This will make sense when you start using them for yourself!)

Yellow Sticky Traps

 

Rubbing Alcohol, Lemon Oil, Cotton Pads, and Q-Tips

Rubbing alcohol on a cotton pad can be used to clean disinfect pruning tools.   Applied using a Q-Tip, it can also be used to kill mealy bugs on plant leaves and stems. Lemon oil is great for removing stickers from plant pots.  I keep these items in my gardening caddy so that they are always handy.

Lemon oil

 

Additional Helpful Items:

These items would be good to add to your wish list.  They aren’t essential for getting started growing houseplants, but may make houseplant care easier or more enjoyable:

Portable Storage Caddy

A divided organizer like this is convenient for storing and carrying frequently used items.  I have one that I use to hold many of my smaller tools and supplies such as gloves, plant labels, pruning shears, etc.  When I’m ready to work with my plants, I can quickly grab that tote from the garage.

divided organizer

 

Portable Potting Tray or Bin

Houseplant care can get messy!  I like to contain the mess by working in a plastic tray or tub. These portable potting trays (shown in the first photo below) are specifically designed to contain soil, water, or plant debris while repotting or pruning plants.  I use a large rectangular storage bin (such as the one in the second photo below) when I’m repotting plants. Using a tray or bin like these is especially helpful when working indoors on a kitchen countertop or at the dining table:

Portable Potting Tray

 

Large Rectangular Storage Bin

In addition to storing supplies, storage bins like this can be used as a portable potting tray.  I use one like this when I’m repotting or pruning my houseplants indoors.  I also sometimes set my plants in a container like this when I water them.  I do this to prevent any soil from going down the drain.  These are also handy for carrying several plants at a time such as when you need to give them all a rinse in the shower!  These can be pricey.  Look for them on sale, at discount retailers, or estate sales.

Storage Bin

 

Large Containers for Storage

I use large, clear containers like this one to store my pots and open bags of potting mix, perlite, or similar products.  These can sometimes be found at estate sales or yard sales at bargain prices.

Large Containers

 

Beginner’s Guide to Beautifying with Indoor Plants

If you are a beginning houseplant grower, consider gifting yourself a copy of my Beginner’s Guide to Beautifying with Indoor Plants eBook.  I wrote the guide to help people choose the best plants for beautifying their indoor space and learn the basics of plant care in order to keep their new plants thriving!

 

If you have a question about the information in this post or a comment to share, please email me directly at [email protected].

Thank you,
Melanie

 

 

My Preferred Method of Pruning Fruit Trees

My Preferred Method of Pruning Fruit Trees

When it comes to fruit tree pruning, I follow the advice of industry leader, Dave Wilson Nursery, and use the summer pruning method.  Most of the information shared in this post came directly from the Home Garden section of their website.  Specific links are provided throughout the post.  My personal thoughts are written in italics.

The Reasons for Pruning

  • Small trees yield crops of manageable size and are much easier to spray, thin, prune, net, and harvest than large trees.
  • Most kinds of deciduous fruit trees require pruning to stimulate new fruiting wood, remove broken and diseased wood, space the fruiting wood, and allow good air circulation and sunlight penetration in the canopy.
  • Pruning is most important in the first three years because this is when the shape and size of a fruit tree are established.
  • It’s much easier to keep a small tree small than to make a large tree small, and the results will be much better.
  • Pruning at the same time as thinning the crop is strongly recommended.
  • By pruning when there is fruit on the tree, the kind of wood on which the tree sets fruit (one-year old wood, two-year old wood, spurs, etc.) is apparent, which helps you to make better pruning decisions.

 

Summer Pruning – The Ideal Method of Pruning for Size Control

Advantages of Summer Pruning

Summer pruning can be done several times each year.  You don’t have to wait until trees are already past their fruiting stage.

Summer pruning can be incorporated as part of summer thinning in May and even June.

You can go out several times over the summer, and do a little bit of pruning just to keep growth in-check and manageable for you.

 

Deciding How Tall to Grow Your Fruit Trees

The height that you keep your fruit trees should be the height that is most easily manageable for you.  Ideally, no taller than what you can reach for pruning, spraying, netting, and harvesting while standing on the ground or a low stool (typically about 7-8′ tall to as low as a 4-5′ bush).  So, choose a size and don’t let the tree get any taller.

Personally, I like the idea of growing a “fruiting bush” in order to avoid the need for standing on a stool especially as we age.  Keeping trees small with a low branching structure would also make the fruit more easily accessible to children.  Children old enough to respect sharp tools and handle them properly can be taught how to prune.  Selective pruning is a skill that will always be in demand.

 

 When to Prune and Where to Cut

Per Dave Wilson Nursery:

When planting a barefoot tree, cut side limbs back by at least two-thirds to promote vigorous new growth.  (A bare-root tree is one that is sold without a pot.  Typically, the roots will be surrounded with sawdust and wrapped in burlap to keep them moist.  Bare-root is the least expensive way to buy a fruit tree.  Also, once planted, bare-root trees often grow faster than containerized trees if they have been in pots for too long).

 

Next, two or three times per year, cut back or remove limbs and branches to accomplish the following:

First Year

This fruit tree was pruned to form a very low branching structure which is ideal for home gardeners.

At planting time, bare-root trees may be topped as low as 15 inches above the ground to force very low scaffold limbs or, alternatively, trees may be topped higher than 15 inches (up to four feet) depending on the presence of well-spaced side limbs or desired tree form.

After the spring flush of growth, cut the new growth back by half.  In late summer, cut the subsequent growth back by half.  Size control and development of low fruiting wood begin in the first year.

The main exceptions to the low-cut recommendations above are large caliper bare root peach and nectarine trees (3/4″ and up), which sometimes do not push new limbs from low on the trunk.  Especially when these trees are not fully dormant, they should be topped higher initially, just above any existing lower limbs (or at about 28 inches if no lower limbs are present).  Once new growth has begun, the height may be reduced further.

When selecting containerized trees for planting in late spring/early summer, select trees with well-placed low scaffold limbs.  These are usually trees that were cut back when potted to force low growth.  Cut back new growth by half now, and again in late summer.

 

Second Year

Cut back new growth by half in spring and late summer, the same as the first year.

Pruning three times may be the easiest way to manage some vigorous varieties: spring, early summer, late summer.

Single-tree Plantings:  Prune to vase shape (open center, no central leader).

Multi-Plantings (planting two or more trees in one hole):  Thin out the center to allow plenty of sunlight into the interior of the group of trees.

All Trees:  Revome broken limbs.  Remove diseased limbs well below signs of disease.

 

Third Year

Generally, the third year is when the height of the tree is established.

Whenever there are vigorous shoots above the chosen height, cut back or remove them.  Each year, in late spring/early summer, cut back all new growth by at least half.

The smaller one, two, and three-year-old branches that bear the fruit should have at least six inches of free space all around.  This means that where two branches begin close together and grow in the same direction, one should be removed.  When limbs cross one another, one should be cut back or removed.

When removing large limbs, first saw part way through the limb on the underside ahead of your intended cut.  Do this so it won’t tear the trunk as it comes off.  Also, don’t make the final cut flush with the trunk or parent limb; be sure to leave a collar (a short stub).

 

Tips for Success!

 

  • This tree was not pruned prior to the growing season one year, and the weight of the fruit broke the branch.

    Always prune with clean, sharp tools.  Disinfect your pruning tool after cutting diseased branches and prior to moving from one tree to another.

  • Make pruning cuts at an angle about 1/4″ above a bud, and try to prune to an outward-facing bud.
  • Keep the center open:  Remove any crossing branches, branches growing toward the center, dead or dying wood, or spindly growth.  Doing this in late winter or early spring is ideal because it is easier to see where to make your cuts when the trees are bare or have few leaves.
  • Avoid pruning on an extremely hot day or during a heatwave.  Keep in mind that pruning can expose inner leaves and trunk tissue to more sun making them vulnerable to sunburn.  So, when pruning during summer, remove enough growth to increase airflow and sunlight without leaving the interior completely exposed.
  • Don’t be afraid to try!  When pruning, it is important to know what we are doing.  Fruit trees are expensive, and pruning has a permanent impact on the future growth and fruit production of the tree.  However, not pruning at all or pruning late is also problematic.
  • If you feel unsure about how to prune your trees, I encourage you to watch some of the pruning videos on the Dave Wilson Nursery YouTube channel.
  • Confidence in pruning comes with experience and success.  Success comes from learning the basics and trying it out for yourself.
  • If fear of making a mistake is keeping you from pruning, here are two suggestions:
    One – Attend a fruit tree pruning workshop or hire a professional to give you a pruning demo on your own trees.
    Two – Decide to try and err on the side of pruning off too little rather than too much.  As the tree grows, you will be able to see the results of your cuts.  You can always prune more later.

 

Additional Information and Inspiration!

 

Enjoy to the fullest!